Pearl
Strictly speaking, pearls are not gemstones but a natural substance secreted by some mollusks when an irritant stimulates its production. That’s a rather dry description of one of the loveliest, most lustrous gems in existence. Unlike many other gems that have fire and flash, natural pearls have a warm, soft luster that only deepens with wear and age.
June’s birthstone, the pearl is one of the most ancient gems and has been used decoratively for thousands of years. At one point, pearls were more highly valued than diamonds because of their rarity and the difficulty of finding perfect specimens. The art of culturing pearls have made them more affordable, and freshwater pearls are among the most affordable of semi-precious gems.
Learn more about the June birthstone
Pearl buying guide
Pearls are one of the major exceptions to the 4 C’s judging of quality. Instead, pearls are judged by completely different criteria.
Luster
Luster is a measure of the glow and shininess of a pearl. It’s the result of light being both refracted down through the layers of nacre at the same time it is reflecting back from them. High luster is desirable in a pearl.
White is the color most often associated with pearl, and the most valued are generally pure, gleaming bone white with no yellow or pink overtones. The exception is black pearls, which are highly prized and valued. Pink and cream colored pearls are also beautiful, and if they are matched perfectly in color and size can command a high price.
Surface roughness
How do you tell a genuine pearl from a fake? Experts say that you rub it against your teeth. Cultured and natural pearls will have a grainy or rough texture that no fake pearl has been able to match.
Shape and size
Round and pear are the shapes that are most valued by gem buyers. If you’re buying a strand of pearls, look for either pearls of the same size and shape, or for pearls that graduate smoothly in size from the center to the ends. The more smooth the gradations, the more you can expect to pay for the strand of pearls. Size is measured in millimeters for individual pearls and length in inches for the strands. The larger the pearl or the longer the strand, obviously, the more expensive the price will be.
Pricing hierarchy
Pearls are one of the gems where place of origin does make a difference in pricing. In general, natural pearls – which are nearly non-existent – will command the highest price, followed by South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls, Akoya pearls and freshwater pearls.
Caring for pearls
Pearls require special handling. The nacre on cultured pearls is an organic material that can easily be chipped, cracked or discolored. In addition, unlike other gems that are usually set in metal, pearls are most often strung on silk, which can get dirty and loosen over time.
Everyday caution
Put on your pearls AFTER applying makeup, hair spray and perfume. Avoid getting chemicals on them.
Never wear pearls while swimming or working with chemicals which can damage both the pearls and the silk on which they are strung.
Cleaning your pearls
Clean your pearls with a soft, dry cloth after wearing them to remove bodily oils and surface dirt. Have your pearls professionally cleaned and restrung every year or two. Don’t soak or clean in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Storing your pearls
Store pearls in a soft pouch away from other jewelry to prevent scratching and nicking.
